I’m down another two Lao lives. I’ve ventured to the small town of Phonsavan a sleepy town in the north east of Laos. Initially I was a little uneasy about the ruggedness and what at first feels like a lawless old west squat. It would take a novel to describe the place, but in short there is something special about it that after awhile it starts to grow on you. The weather here is drastically different than any place I have been in Asia so far. I haven’t had a chance to research why, but it is much cooler here and there isn’t hardly any humidity. The sunlight has been absolutely amazing. I think out of all the days I’ve been out shooting I’ve had maybe 2 or 3 bad hours of washed out light. That is in contrast to maybe 1 or 2 good hours everywhere else. When I say bad light you should think of a summer day around 2 in the afternoon. The sun is directly overhead roasting away; with little or no shadows. Proper light is a diffused soft light with long shadows and deep color saturation. Usually you get first-class light in the early mornings or at sunset – it is a rare occasion that you get prolonged spurts through an entire day.
I have quite the collection of pictures for this post. It isn’t a coincidence that you get more winners in excellent light, I’d venture you can triple your production. I’m thinking that’s just about what I did here in Phonsavan.
Before I get to the images I’ll give a little background as to how they were collected. On my trip from Luang Prabang to Phonsavan I was one of 3 people that had the joy of another gnarly rollercoaster ride through more barren mountainside (take off a Lao life for that ride). All I can say is that the driver was obviously training to be a rally car driver. I had to lie down to try and keep from getting car sick. That was a painful experience in itself as I was tossed from side to side while fighting to stay in the seat.
One of the guys happened to be another solo traveler from Australia looking to hit the same spots as myself. When we got in town we figured out a game plan for the next day and as that happened we met another solo traveling guy from Germany also wanting to go to see the same places. And so it began.
Make: NIKON CORPORATION
Model: NIKON D3X
Shutter Speed: 1/160 second
Aperture: F/3.2
Focal Length: 200 mm
ISO Speed: 100
Date Taken: Oct 2, 2009, 5:16:01 PM
The Australian.
Make: NIKON CORPORATION
Model: NIKON D3X
Shutter Speed: 1/800 second
Aperture: F/2.8
Focal Length: 70 mm
ISO Speed: 100
Date Taken: Oct 2, 2009, 4:52:50 PM
The German playing guitar with a special guest, the guy that runs the guest house. The guy running the place was an absolute riot to say the least.
The next morning the typhoon weather had rolled in and brought with it a light dreary rain. After looking at the internet weather forecast it seemed pretty clear that the overcast would break in a couple of hours – this was concluded via my supernatural Ron Burgundy forecasting skills.
We all rented motorbikes and started what would turn out to be a very productive and interesting journey to three different site locations for The Plain of Jars. The jars are actually located in some 20 different locations but the 3 we visited were the densest AND generally cleared of UXO (unexploded ordinance) (minus another Lao life for walking outside of the cleared zones)
The next day was a walk to and from an old cemetery just outside of Phonsavan. A walk that managed to produce a lot of fun shots; special thanks go out to the perfect lighting.
This is the sign that tells you the UXO is something you should probably take serious.
In between days I managed to get a lot of great shots shooting off the guest house balcony. It seems that this particular location is situated on the towns strip and just about everything interesting passes by here.
The breakdown is going to be as such:
Part 1: Landscape and The Plain of Jars
Part 2: People
Part 3: Miscellaneous
Part 1: Landscape and The Plain of Jars
Make: NIKON CORPORATION
Model: NIKON D3X
Shutter Speed: 1/250 second
Aperture: F/8.0
Focal Length: 14 mm
ISO Speed: 100
Date Taken: Oct 1, 2009, 12:39:22 PM
I’ll put in a couple of shots that were taken on the way to the Plain of Jars. If there is one good thing about a typhoon…. It’s wicked cloud cover.
Make: NIKON CORPORATION
Model: NIKON D3X
Shutter Speed: 1/6400 second
Aperture: F/2.8
Focal Length: 15 mm
ISO Speed: 500
Date Taken: Oct 1, 2009, 12:33:39 PM
Make: NIKON CORPORATION
Model: NIKON D3X
Shutter Speed: 1/5000 second
Aperture: F/2.8
Focal Length: 24 mm
ISO Speed: 500
Date Taken: Oct 1, 2009, 12:15:57 PM
The landscape in this part of Lao is absolutely awe inspiring. There is such a contrast between the deep colors in the ground plain and the sky it creates perfect compositions. The rice fields now are an intense almost fluorescent green that often grow in or around a blood red soil. Add this to a rich blue massing of clouds and you would have to make an effort to get bad photographs.
Make: NIKON CORPORATION
Model: NIKON D3X
Shutter Speed: 1/1600 second
Aperture: F/8.0
Focal Length: 14 mm
ISO Speed: 100
Date Taken: Oct 1, 2009, 2:27:27
Make: NIKON CORPORATION
Model: NIKON D3X
Shutter Speed: 1/2500 second
Aperture: F/2.8
Focal Length: 14 mm
ISO Speed: 100
Date Taken: Oct 2, 2009, 1:35:55 PM
Make: NIKON CORPORATION
Model: NIKON D3X
Shutter Speed: 1/250 second
Aperture: F/2.8
Focal Length: 14 mm
ISO Speed: 100
Date Taken: Oct 1, 2009, 10:24:07 AM
I’m not going to go into the details on The Plain of Jars but I will say this, it is a UNESCO World Heritage site and was well worth seeing. You can find plenty of information on the web – none of which will give you a definitive answer. It just about starts and ends with the fact that they are made of stone and you can put stuff in them. There are all kinds of theories as to how they got there and the people – it’s a lot like Stonehenge.
Make: NIKON CORPORATION
Model: NIKON D3X
Shutter Speed: 1/80 second
Aperture: F/2.8
Focal Length: 200 mm
ISO Speed: 100
Date Taken: Oct 1, 2009, 3:21:17 PM
As I mentioned before there are three sites we visited. I think 85% of the experience was trying to find the places. I’d love to go into the details just because of the sheer amount of fun we had but unfortunately I think it would take entirely to long to explain everything. I’ll just mention a few of the highlights: Hauling ass on dirt roads riding a 150cc scooter, getting lost, getting lost in a village that seemed to have never been visited by white people, getting lost, being chased by tons of kids, nearly dumping aforementioned scooter via muddy roads in front of said kids, getting lost, tons of jokes about finding a landmine in the worst way, perfect weather, getting lost, and of course the chance to see 100% authentic Laos culture you would never get from a tour/trek package; oh and getting lost.
Make: NIKON CORPORATION
Model: NIKON D3X
Shutter Speed: 1/100 second
Aperture: F/2.8
Focal Length: 200 mm
ISO Speed: 100
Date Taken: Oct 1, 2009, 3:21:29 PM
Make: NIKON CORPORATION
Model: NIKON D3X
Shutter Speed: 1/160 second
Aperture: F/2.8
Focal Length: 200 mm
ISO Speed: 100
Date Taken: Oct 1, 2009, 3:21:51 PM
Part 2: People
For whatever reason in Phonsavan I was presented with some of the absolute best opportunities to shoot people. I’ve shot a lot of people up until now, but in Phonsavan I didn’t have to push to get the shots, they just kind of came to fruition. A lot of times I’ll see a good photo opp and I’ll find myself rushing to switch lenses or compose the scene sometimes disappointed that I didn’t nail it or the light wasn’t right. In Phonsavan there was never a rush, the light was great, and the people seemed to linger in the shot plenty long enough for me to get what I was after.
I’m going to ramp up to my favorites by first posting some un-posted shots from my last day in Luang Prabang.
Make: NIKON CORPORATION
Model: NIKON D3X
Shutter Speed: 1/60 second
Aperture: F/2.8
Focal Length: 130 mm
ISO Speed: 400
Date Taken: Sep 28, 2009, 5:40:45 PM
This guy I believe was fogging for mosquitoes.
Make: NIKON CORPORATION
Model: NIKON D3X
Shutter Speed: 1/100 second
Aperture: F/4.5
Focal Length: 200 mm
ISO Speed: 400
Date Taken: Sep 28, 2009, 5:45:09 PM
And these people were taking the brunt of his fogging.
Make: NIKON CORPORATION
Model: NIKON D3X
Shutter Speed: 1/800 second
Aperture: F/2.8
Focal Length: 200 mm
ISO Speed: 640
Date Taken: Sep 30, 2009, 4:22:34 PM
And into the Phonsavan people shots.
Make: NIKON CORPORATION
Model: NIKON D3X
Shutter Speed: 1/800 second
Aperture: F/2.8
Focal Length: 200 mm
ISO Speed: 640
Date Taken: Sep 30, 2009, 4:22:34 PM
Make: NIKON CORPORATION
Model: NIKON D3X
Shutter Speed: 1/100 second
Aperture: F/3.2
Focal Length: 200 mm
ISO Speed: 100
Date Taken: Oct 2, 2009, 5:18:54 PM
NIKON CORPORATION
NIKON D3X
1/80 second
F/2.8
155 mm
100
Sep 30, 2009, 4:26:15 PM
I am conflicted as to which picture of this girl to post so I am posting both.
NIKON CORPORATION
NIKON D3X
1/80 second
F/2.8
155 mm
100
Sep 30, 2009, 4:28:15 PM
Make: NIKON CORPORATION
Model: NIKON D3X
Shutter Speed: 1/100 second
Aperture: F/2.8
Focal Length: 200 mm
ISO Speed: 100
Date Taken: Oct 1, 2009, 3:31:22 PM
This was a tour guide some people had paid to take them around to see the Jars. I’d say a couple things when it comes to tour guides but I’ll keep it brief… there is only so much they are good for – taking your picture is one of them, driving you to the place is the other.
Make: NIKON CORPORATION
Model: NIKON D3X
Shutter Speed: 1/400 second
Aperture: F/2.8
Focal Length: 200 mm
ISO Speed: 100
Date Taken: Oct 1, 2009, 3:34:09 PM
We followed these guys out of one of the Jar sites. To get to the site you walk along a small path through some rice patties and up a hill – it was rather scenic.
Make: NIKON CORPORATION
Model: NIKON D3X
Shutter Speed: 1/200 second
Aperture: F/2.8
Focal Length: 17 mm
ISO Speed: 100
Date Taken: Oct 2, 2009, 12:56:29 PM
I kind of bombed this shot – it was more the camera and skies fault but I had to put it in just because of the story line.
Make: NIKON CORPORATION
Model: NIKON D3X
Shutter Speed: 1/500 second
Aperture: F/2.8
Focal Length: 200 mm
ISO Speed: 100
Date Taken: Oct 2, 2009, 1:09:20 PM
Make: NIKON CORPORATION
Model: NIKON D3X
Shutter Speed: 1/60 second
Aperture: F/2.8
Focal Length: 175 mm
ISO Speed: 100
Date Taken: Oct 2, 2009, 1:10:05 PM
NIKON CORPORATION
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1/320 second
F/2.8
200 mm
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Oct 2, 2009, 1:11:59 PM
NIKON CORPORATION
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Oct 2, 2009, 1:13:18 PM
So, there was this group of kids on the way to the cemetery. For whatever reason, be it height, gender, their clothes, their age, whatever it was, they were almost always running around in perfect composition. It wasn’t until I was proofing the photos that I realized the following shots in the cemetery were the same kids as above.
Make: NIKON CORPORATION
Model: NIKON D3X
Shutter Speed: 1/800 second
Aperture: F/2.8
Focal Length: 200 mm
ISO Speed: 100
Date Taken: Oct 2, 2009, 1:41:57 PM
NIKON CORPORATION
NIKON D3X
1/800 second
F/2.8
180 mm
100
Oct 2, 2009, 1:44:17 PM
You can be reassured that there was no effort on our part to move them around. They did all this on their own all we did was thank them and shoot away.
Make: NIKON CORPORATION
Model: NIKON D3X
Shutter Speed: 1/1000 second
Aperture: F/2.8
Focal Length: 200 mm
ISO Speed: 100
Date Taken: Oct 2, 2009, 1:43:38 PM
Make: NIKON CORPORATION
Model: NIKON D3X
Shutter Speed: 1/160 second
Aperture: F/4.0
Focal Length: 135 mm
ISO Speed: 100
Date Taken: Oct 2, 2009, 2:08:27 PM
This lady was great. She saw us shooting her fence and she came out to watch. When we asked to take some photos of her and the baby she was all about it. She started posing and moving around to give us different angles. She was all smiles and having a great time.
Part 3: Miscellaneous
Make: NIKON CORPORATION
Model: NIKON D3X
Shutter Speed: 1/100 second
Aperture: F/2.8
Focal Length: 105 mm
ISO Speed: 400
Date Taken: Sep 28, 2009, 5:42:46 PM
A little abstract shot from a bridge in Luang Prabang.
Make: NIKON CORPORATION
Model: NIKON D3X
Shutter Speed: 1/80 second
Aperture: F/2.8
Focal Length: 200 mm
ISO Speed: 400
Date Taken: Sep 28, 2009, 5:46:23 PM
Make: NIKON CORPORATION
Model: NIKON D3X
Shutter Speed: 1/160 second
Aperture: F/4.0
Focal Length: 16 mm
ISO Speed: 100
Date Taken: Sep 29, 2009, 2:25:36 PM
I would imagine a long ride in this jeep would do wonders for your rear and back.
Make: NIKON CORPORATION
Model: NIKON D3X
Shutter Speed: 1/320 second
Aperture: F/4.0
Focal Length: 175 mm
ISO Speed: 100
Date Taken: Sep 29, 2009, 2:49:00 PM
Lots of mixed fruit shakes in Luang Prabang
Make: NIKON CORPORATION
Model: NIKON D3X
Shutter Speed: 1/13 second
Aperture: F/2.8
Focal Length: 200 mm
ISO Speed: 400
Date Taken: Oct 1, 2009, 9:01:25 AM
Lots of bombs in Phonsavan.
Make: NIKON CORPORATION
Model: NIKON D3X
Shutter Speed: 1/20 second
Aperture: F/4.0
Focal Length: 135 mm
ISO Speed: 100
Date Taken: Oct 1, 2009, 9:38:43 AM
Cluster bombs anyone?
Make: NIKON CORPORATION
Model: NIKON D3X
Shutter Speed: 1/1250 second
Aperture: F/2.8
Focal Length: 16 mm
ISO Speed: 100
Date Taken: Oct 2, 2009, 12:57:13 PM
I saw this jeep on the way to the cemetery and knew there was a shot. It was a production getting it though… and funny to say the least.
NIKON CORPORATION
NIKON D3X
1/2500 second
F/2.8
14 mm
100
Oct 2, 2009, 1:06:24 PM
Make: NIKON CORPORATION
Model: NIKON D3X
Shutter Speed: 1/640 second
Aperture: F/2.8
Focal Length: 95 mm
ISO Speed: 100
Date Taken: Oct 2, 2009, 1:24:04 PM
Make: NIKON CORPORATION
Model: NIKON D3X
Shutter Speed: 1/200 second
Aperture: F/2.8
Focal Length: 116 mm
ISO Speed: 100
Date Taken: Oct 2, 2009, 1:25:45 PM
I have a couple of loose end stories about Laos I am going to put in without photos – mostly because photos of the stories probably aren’t that glamorous.
First there is the situation with the power. In Laos it seems to be a frequent occurrence that the power goes out. It especially likes to go out when you are on the internet holding a phone conversation or typing a long email. It is just about a daily occurrence, sometimes more. Right now I am working in my room – under sunlight with no power. I was down to 5% battery power before it came back on… how long that took I have no idea but it must have been a few hours. I’ll just add that the power just went out again; luckily I managed to get to 58% charge during the up time.
Then there is the difficulty finding internet, especially in a guest house. In Laos there is a lot of derangement when it comes to the availability of internet service. I’ve been asking around and the best I can find is that the government sells the service and they charge a lot of money. Either way, if you want internet good luck; I’ve found it in 2 guest houses and they were both 3-4 times more expensive than the rest of the guest house market. In Phonsavan I have yet to see one place that has it… regardless of price.
There was also this funny experience while I was in the internet café in regards to UXO, one of those only in Lao moments. A guy was working on a computer setting up a print for a small poster that they use for fence posts. The poster is to inform you that there are bombs/land mines in the area and you shouldn’t proceed. Well as I was looking over his shoulder I noticed a spelling error in the phrase “danger bombs” – he spelt bombs wrong spelling it boms. I probably saved a life. The one I posted isn’t the same – it’s just for effect.
Another one I have been sitting on is the food and drink. Most notable – Lao coffee. I can’t help not drinking coffee when it is 50 cents for the good stuff. When I say “the good stuff,” we are talking the same consistency of motor oil. It’s more than an intravenous drip when you get down to it – it’s a slice of heaven. The other is that the main courses for Lao food get monotonous after awhile. Lao food consists of three main dishes – glass noodle soup, fried rice, and stir fry all with the variations chicken, pork, or beef.
And finally the post title.
I ran into a small problem in Phonsavan with my Vietnam visa. I’m not sure how I pulled it off whether it was forgetfulness or unknowingness. Either way I got here and realized I can’t get into Vietnam via a visa on arrival (Visa on arrival is getting a stamp on the border and crossing over). To get the Vietnam Visa you have to get it from a consulate all of which are located in large cities. In Lao there are two cities, Vientiane and Luang Prabang. At this point in the game I am in no mood to travel to either. I’d have a mess with the roads and logistics, that and having to relocate to a place I have already been and just chill for 3-4 days maybe more. The alternative is me sending my passport to Vientiane for $85 (including visa fees) via some convoluted transport and just chilling here… which is what I decided to do. I also can’t send my passport out until tomorrow because they don’t stamp over the weekends; that little detail gave me an extra 3 days in Phonsavan, joy.
So a slight change in plans before I start making my way to Vietnam. I’ll update the travel map before I cross the border.
